Mastering the Art of Tucks, Plaits, and Frills
A Comprehensive Guide to Enhanced Garment Detailing
Waists may have tucks of various size, from the tiny pin tucks to the size of two inches. All material should be tucked before it is cut, except in cases where a tuck is continued through a seam like a Gibson tuck on a shoulder, and in that case the size of your tuck should be pinned in, the shoulder stitched and then your tuck is ready to stitch. All modern machines have a tucker attachment, therefore making the tucking process very simple, as tucks of any size may be made with them and they are far more accurate than the eye can make them.
In using tucks, they should be close together to give the desired effect. Plaits are practically the same as tucks, only they are used in more different ways. There’s the plain tuck or side plait, the box plait, the inverted plait, the double box plait, etc.
The plain tuck or side plait is made by taking up twice the amount of goods as the plait is wide. The box plait is made by taking up twice the amount of goods as the plait is wide and after the plait is stitched, baste outer edge of plait on to the row of stitching and press into position.
The inverted plait is made by simply turning a side plait underneath.
The double box plait is made by adding another plait each side of the single box plait.
Triple box plait is made by adding two more plaits each side of the box plait, these may be even with the edge of the outside plait or may extend a little outside the box plait.
Frills, as the term generally implies, signifies ruffles, or anything about a garment that is fluffy or fussy. Ruffles are made by using either the straight or the bias of your material, cut in the desired width and hemmed on both sides, and a row of shirring put in on the plain or turned away edge at top. Another kind of frill is made by cutting narrow bias strips, hemming on both sides and shirring down the center. Still another style may be made by using the material on the bias, doubling it and shirring the one edge, or down the center.
Insertions. Lace or embroidery is inserted in material on which it is to be used as trimming. It is first pinned on in the design desired, then basted in place and stitched on either side by machine, or it may be run on by hand. The material under the insertion is then cut down the center and turned back on a line with the stitching and basted there. A second row of stitching should be made as nearly on the first as possible; this makes the work firm. The edge of the material should then be cut away 3/8 in. from the stitching. But if you desire to do real dainty work it is advisable to turn the material back into a tiny hem and catch it down to the row of stitching All corners should be trimmed down and sewn flat — button- holing secures these raw edges.
